Thursday, 23 May 2013

The Biscuit Break

According to Theodore Garrett in The Encyclopaedia of Practical Cookery (London: 1890s), every cook has their very own  built-in biscuit-break.

This is a mini-posting to answer a question put by Elise Fleming as to what I meant by a 'biscuit break' in my last article Some Regency Biscuits. Well, a 'break' or 'brake' was a piece of equipment used by bakers for kneading bread and biscuit dough in large quantities. They seem to have been utilised by professional bakers since at least the fifteenth century and probably earlier. They consisted of a 'brake-staff' or long pole, usually attached to the wall with a metal swivel. The 'breaksman' or 'brakesman' simply worked the pole up and down over the dough by using the brake-staff like a one man see-saw. 

George Dodd, in Volume V of his extraordinary series British Manufacturers (London: 1808-1881) tells us that in making ships biscuit,  

'The dough was‥taken from the trough and put on a wooden platform called the break. On this platform worked a roller, called the break⁓staff.‥ One end‥was loosely attached by a kind of staple to the wall, and the breakman, riding or sitting on the other end, worked the roller to and fro over the dough, by an uncouth jumping or shuffling movement'.
This 'uncouth jumping or shuffling', also known as 'riding the brake'  is illustrated perfectly in the following engraving, a detail from the decorative title page of John Penketheman's Artachthos (London: 1638- reprinted 1748).


Pentketheman's book is a guide to the assize of bread. His frontispiece illustrates what he calls the 'thirteen arts' of the baker's trade, braking being the fifth. Here is a scan of the frontispiece from my own very nice copy and the explanatory verse which accompanies it. 



Biscuit brakes of this kind were still being used in the early twentieth century, though many of the larger-scale bakers had been turning to mechanised roller breaks from the middle of the nineteenth century onwards. The use of a break produced a very, very fine textured dough, ideal for the uniform result wanted with biscuits, particularly those that were to be printed with a design.

These two diagrams are from Frederick Vine, Biscuits for Bakers (London: nd 1900s).


A mid-nineteenth century roller biscuit break.

My own improvised biscuit break, loosely based on a design in Theodore Garrett's The Encyclopaedia of Practical Cookery (London: 1890s). Garrett's design is at the top.



8 comments:

  1. Hi Ivan

    Simply fascinating. I know just how much work goes into creating a blog of this quality, not to say beauty. And I learn something new everytime. We have both editions of Artachthos at Guildhall Library so it it great to see the frontispiece put to such good use.
    Best wishes
    Peter Ross

    ReplyDelete
  2. Ivan, Apparently they still use something similar in China to make noodles. I guess it does the opposite of kneading, it perhaps breaks the gluten chain to get a more tender and soft dough? Whatever it does, riding it sure looks like fun! Ken

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Ken,
      I hope to see you soon in London at the Anglo-American Conference. I have heard that breaks are also still in use in the Middle-East to make bread dough. Modern bakers throughout Europe still use roller breaks for making all sorts of bread doughs. But the most remarkable survival of the technology is in your country in Kentucky and other southern states where roller breaks and other aggresive implements, including axe handles, are used to make 'beaten biscuit' - see below.

      best regards

      Ivan

      Delete
  3. Ivan, was the biscuit break ever used for sweetened biscuits in England?

    I ask as we have "beaten biscuits" in the south in the United States that are unsweetened, sliced, and served with ham inside; they are prepared at home in a similar manner by being beaten with an object like a rolling pin. I have not come across the technique used for cookies (sweet biscuits) in my reading of cookbooks from the USA.

    Susan Betz, Morgan Hill, California

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Susan,

      Sorry to be so late in answering your comment. Yes. A lot of sweet biscuits were made by professional biscuit bakers using the break. The best source for information on this is Frederick Vine's Biscuits for Bakers (nd. early 1900s). As well as such hard biscuits as Captain Biscuits, Cabin Biscuits, Abernethy Biscuits, which were all prepared using a break, he gives us recipes for scores of sweet ones, in which the dough was also 'broken', such as Exeter Biscuits, Garabaldi Biscuits, Regatta Biscuits etc. to name just a few. I have always found it fascinating that the roller break and other utensils are used to make beaten biscuits in the Southern States. In England the biscuit break has long been extinct. I find it remarkable that it is still used in a domestic context in some of the old colonial states. What a survival!

      Delete
  4. That roller break looks exactly like a sheeter to me - when I worked in a bakery for a short period in the early seventies, it was called a break or brake but it was used for making puff pastry and for rolling out shortcrust pastry for making tarts etc. and not biscuits as far as I can remember. I don't recall the bakery's shops selling biscuits.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Yes. Calling a roller break a 'sheeter' was common from the middle of the twentieth century onwards. They were, and still are used for other tasks other than making sheets of paste for cutting or stamping into biscuits. Biscuits of this kind were rarely made by bakers after the 1st World War as the great industrial biscuit makers dominated the trade.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Hi,

    The machine appears to have been regularly used in France in the 15th and 16th century where it was known as a "brie", or "broke" or "broyoire". Some consider that that first name (brie) gave the word brioche (brioche), literally, "that which comes from the brie". Some recipes of the following centuries mention the brie, but very rarely and it seems to have been much more rarely used in France than in England. The only representations I could find of a brie come from two engravings from the late 18th century depicting "vermicelliers" (pasta-makers) one is from the Diderot Encyclopédie and the other from the lesser known 1771 Description des arts et métiers by Malouin.

    ReplyDelete